St Patrick's Cathedral

The unpromising drab grey exterior is not going to win any cathedral beauty contests but it is the largest church in the country. The other thing you need to know at this point is that the interior is much more elegant than the tawdry outside and its lack of fancy bells and whistles or decorations is down largely to the age of the place. It has been here for nearly 750 years so its history is as long as it is colourful.

Evidence of worship on the site dates back even further. Legend has it that St Patrick once baptised converts to Christianity at a well that existed in a park alongside the cathedral site. As a result of this association with Ireland’s patron saint, a church in some form or other has stood on the site from as early as the fifth century.

It was the Normans who constructed the first stone church in 1197 but this was replaced with the one you see now in the 13th century. The west tower was rebuilt in 1370 after a fire, with the spire added in 1749.

In 1871 St Patrick’s Cathedral was officially declared as the National Cathedral of Ireland. On the inside, the cathedral is brimming with all the statues, tombs, tributes, and stained glass that one would expect from such a title. Among the many things to look out for is the grave and epitaph of Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels. Swift became the cathedral’s most famous Dean after his efforts to gain a similar position in England were thwarted by Queen Anne. Having fled England, he became a keen supporter of Irish causes and began writing his best-known work – Gulliver’s Travels.

When the Dublin-born and educated writer died in 1745 everyone was well prepared because he had already written his own brilliant epitaph and obituary in advance. The former is to be found in the cathedral although you may need help because it is written in Latin. It says: “Here is laid the Body of Jonathan Swift, Doctor of Sacred Theology, Dean of this Cathedral Church, where fierce Indignation can no longer injure the Heart. Go forth, Voyager, and copy, if you can, this vigorous (to the best of his ability) Champion of Liberty. He died on the 19th Day of the Month of October, A.D. 1745, in the 78th Year of his Age.” Inspired!

Today the Cathedral is open to all people as an architectural and historical site, but principally as a place of worship. Charges are made for those visiting for sightseeing and these contributions directly support the future of this holy and historic building.

It is open for tourists from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am till 6pm on Saturdays. Sunday times are complicated as they work around services so are best to be avoided unless you want to take part in the worship.

Admission is €4.20 for adults and €3.70 for students and OAPs. You’ll find it close to the city centre at the junction of Patrick Street and Upper Kevin Street. You can take bus numbers 77 or 77A from Trinity College but you’ll probably walk it faster.